This Richard’s Micro-fit Rifle Stock has been sitting under my bed for about a year. I finally started working on it. I’ve finished inletting the action to receive bedding compound, shaping the forearm tip, and sanding to 100 grit. I still have a lot of work to do.
Custom Gunstock Refinishing
To shape the forearm I cut an angle into the rosewood to match the maple spacer. I then used wood files and rasps to carefully and slowly shape the tip until I was satisfied with the result.
My next step will be bedding the action. I’m using the Miles Gilbert Glass Bedding Kit from Midway USA. I really like Larry Potterfield and he has a great “How-to” Video series on finishing and bedding a rifle stock at Midway.
Yes I named my rifle. Kazeshini, “Wind of Death” in Japanese. Why shouldn’t I name my rifle? This is the camo job that I did over the weekend. You can also see my new Ariat boots, at least the left one. The colors of the camo don’t show up that well with the iphone picture, but I did a base coat of tan, followed by OD green, and finally brown. My methods were pretty simple. I did the base coat wrapped the stock in construction line (the kind used when using a line level) it’s about $5 for 400yards. I also used some thicker rope and finished with burlap loosely wrapped around the stock. Here is the process:
Up close is a 770 stock done for a friend
Savage Stock up close
Base coat Tan
Base coat, Tane
Prepping for OD Green
I’m missing the photos after OD Green
Complete Left Side
Complete Right Side
For preparation I sanded the molding ridges off with 400grit sand paper, and lightly buffed the entire stock. I cleaned with mineral spirits and taped off the parts that I wanted to keep paint of of like my recoil pad, grip cap, and sling studs. I made an impromptu stand and had at it.
Rust-Oleum Specialty Camouflage Spray Pack, 12-Ounce, 6-Pack
Modifications Made so Far:
- Changed out Bushnell scope to a Nikon 3-9 40mm scope with standard duplex.
- Installed a Rifle Basix trigger
- Added a sling
Modifications Still to be made
- Reinforce the stock to add stiffness, and theoretically improve accuracy.
- Install a bipod, I haven’t researched which bipod I want.
- Get a palm swell and removable comb (the kind the you can take on and off). I wanted to permanently attach a comb but my long action bolt wouldn’t clear. And I need more than 1/4 which is what I have.
Distant Future Modifications
- A super nice scope. Like in the $1000 plus price range.
- A Manners or McMillan stock. About $400
- Eventually a Krieger barrel I think the run about $400
As you can see I’m spending A LOT of money in my mind. Although, this is the last big game long distance rifle I will ever buy. I don’t see the need to have more than one full power rifle. Now I do think I’ll get a AR style .223 long range varmint rifle one day, but for now I’m good.
This was my birthday present back in October. A Savage 111 30-06 with a Bushnell 3-9x scope and detachable box magazine (DBM). I Got it for $300!!
So why did I get this inexpensive rifle?
- Savage 110 series has a reputation for being one of the most accurate “out of the box” rifles on the market. Mine will consistently shoot 1/2 to 3/4 inch groups at 100 yards. So a sub-MOA rifle for $300 bucks, not a bad deal.
- While not as plentiful as Remington 700s there are plenty of aftermarket parts (stocks, mounts, triggers, barrels, gunsmiths, etc)
- The Savage 111 action is the base for a lot of custom rifles, so I can start with a good rifle and upgrade parts as I can afford and one day have a world-class rifle that will perform with the best.
- I recommend getting the Savage 110series or Remington 700 over models like the Savage Axis, Ruger American, and Remington 770. These are fine rifles, but are limited in that you will not be able to find parts to customize them. They are “as-is” rifles that may last your whole life, but you’ll never be able to make them better, other than I good scope and mounts. Since a Savage 111 is about the same price, I went with the rifle that would give me, what I believe is the best value.
So why a 30-06? Isn’t a .308 the Military’s standard sniper caliber?
Yes the .308 is the standard NATO round, but the 30-06 still out performs the 308. And the ’06 blows the 308 out of the water when you start reloading your own ammo. The Military switched from the 30-06 to the 308 during Vietnam for sniping. In the 60s the .308 performed almost identical to the military loading of the 30-06. With today’s powder technology and the increased capacity of the 30-06 casing, he 30-06 easily gains 100-150 fps on the 308, and you can effectively load up to 220grn bullets. Also you can find 30-06 anywhere that sells ammo.
What modifications have I done to my rifle?
- I put a decent scope on it. I am done with cheap $50 scopes, like the one that came on my gun. My dream scope is $1000 (http://www.opticsplanet.com/trijicon-accupoint-5-20×50-riflescope.html)…so, it’s going to be a while before I get this baby. Here is what I did. I got a 22mag from my grandfather (after he died) with a $200 Nikon scope on it. I put the Bushnell from my 30-06 on the 22mag and the Nikon on my ’06 before I ever fired the first shot.
- I upgraded the trigger to a Rifle Basix trigger for about $85 (http://www.riflebasix.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1). My rifle did not come with Savage’s Accutrigger, which is what I originally wanted.
What Modifications do I want to do? This is the approximate order I want to do this in.
- Bed and stiffen the stock. The cheap plastic stock is flimsy, you want things on a precision rifle to be stiff, by bedding the full length of the action and stock (while maintaining a free-float barrel). I can stiffen the stock and tighten up the tolerances between the barrel and action. This will cost about $20.
- Paint my stock. I’m going to do a DIY camo job on the stock. One day I’ll put a Tactical stock on it that will cost about $400. More that the gun, I know but it does make a difference in long range accuracy.
- Add Kick Eez palm swell and check pad. This will help me fit the stock to myself, and the goal whether shotgun, rifle, or pistol is to made the shooter and the gun as close to a single unit as possible, to get the best possible accuracy.
- Get a bi-pod. I am going to make a bi-pod and gun rest that I found on http://www.varmintal.com/abifu.htm, but I also want a good Harris bi-pod for about $100
- Get a one piece steel picatiny scope rail (Steel is stiffer that aluminum. and one piece is again stiffer, and stiffer is what you want in a precision rifle, high quality scope mounts, and my Trijicon Mildot scope.
- I wont get a new barrel until after I’ve done all this other mods, my rifle shoots well enough and with these improvements I should get the maximum precision out of my rifle.
PS – I made the sandbags from out blue jeans and duct-tape, they don’t hold up too well